*Originally published in Japanese in Forbes JAPAN on April 28th, 2025.
English translation by the author.
Over the past few years, vintage and secondhand clothing have seen a resurgence in popularity, especially among Gen Z and millennials.
A recent visit to New York’s "NOT A NORMAL MARKET" — a pop-up event centered on sustainable fashion — made that clear. Held for four days across two weekends in March, the market featured various shops and brands, mostly fashion-related, in the former Barney’s New York space, a site deeply nostalgic for those in the fashion industry. To the organizers' surprise, approximately 80% of the vendors were selling vintage clothing. This raises the question: has vintage become synonymous with sustainability in fashion?
Vintage aligns with many modern values: sustainability, uniqueness, and a nostalgic connection to past aesthetics. I acknowledge its appeal and see it as a compelling option. Yet, when it comes to wearing vintage in professional settings, the equation becomes more complex.
We now live in a time where freedom of choice is celebrated, and self-care and self-expression are emphasized. Talking about others’ appearance has become taboo under the banner of lookism. But that doesn’t mean people aren’t silently judged. Even if you love what you wear, it might not always convey the impression you intend. Your clothes speak for you before you say a word.
Outfits Are Nonverbal Communication
The charm of vintage lies in its narrative. Each piece carries traces of the era it came from and the people who wore it. These are clothes that “tell stories,” resonating deeply with those who appreciate their rarity and individuality. From a sustainability perspective, wearing well-made pieces from the past is a quiet but powerful act of resistance to mass production.
That said, when it comes to workplaces and other professional or formal spaces, careful consideration is required. Whether vintage is welcomed varies greatly depending on industry, company culture, location, and whom you’re meeting. In creative industries like fashion, design, or advertising, vintage might be seen as a mark of individuality or taste. But in more conservative fields like finance, law, or public administration, traditional dress codes are often seen as a baseline for trust.
Thus, the question isn’t "Can you wear vintage?" but rather, "How do you wear it?" The issue isn’t about the garment itself but how intentional, refined, and well-integrated it is in your overall presence. For executives and professionals, appearance is not just about style — it’s about credibility, values, and reliability.
Your presence, including your appearance, is a visual manifestation of your decision-making. What you choose, what you don’t. What you invest in, what you deem valuable. Vintage, with its historical depth, reveals your aesthetic and convictions — if worn thoughtfully.
I personally avoid vintage pieces with unknown provenance. But when meaningful items are entrusted to me by people I love and trust — whether family members or close friends — I may choose to incorporate them, with careful consideration of their stories, the occasion, and how they align with who I am today.
Most of the vintage pieces I own are timeless, classic, and understated. Yet I’ve learned from experience that even those can look outdated if mismatched with the current cultural moment. That’s why I urge people to approach vintage with clarity and objectivity — not just because it’s trendy or sustainable.
Why I Remain Cautious
Despite understanding the value of vintage, I remain cautious about embracing it fully — particularly when it comes to secondhand clothing. No matter the condition, the uncertainty of its previous ownership gives me pause. And I know I’m not alone; many executives and professionals who work in trust-driven, high-stakes environments share this hesitation.
I admire the ethos of sustainability and mindful consumption. But the reality is this: if your vintage outfit reads as shabby rather than intentional, it could silently undermine your credibility. You may never be told why, but you may find yourself quietly excluded from key introductions and opportunities. That’s not malice or bias — that’s how selection works.
Of course, being excluded from unnecessary obligations is sometimes a blessing. Saying no is far more taxing than saying yes. But no matter which path you choose, what you wear reflects your attitude and your readiness.
Reconstructing Through Vintage
No matter how pristine, vintage garments lack one thing: newness. Wearing vintage means layering your image with the weight of another era. To navigate today’s demands, your social standing, profession, and the expectations placed on you must all be factored into your personal presentation. That balance takes time and effort — but that’s exactly where its value lies.
Vintage, once the domain of niche communities, is now part of the broader sustainability movement. If adopted with intention and skill, it can be a powerful style choice.
Still, wearing vintage requires greater resolve than wearing new clothes. It carries a higher risk of unintended messaging. If, despite that, you wear it to make a statement or express something deeply personal, then it becomes a powerful signal of conviction.
When You Think "I Can Wear This Again"
Today’s acceptance of vintage has led many to pull old clothes from the back of their closets. But it’s important to recognize that clothes from your past don’t automatically suit your present. Most people wear them out of nostalgia or convenience, without realizing the message they’re sending.
If someone wears a poorly fitting or outdated outfit, I can offer gentle guidance. But if that item is a treasured piece they’ve kept for decades, criticism may feel like a rejection of their life. That’s why it’s so hard to address missteps when people wear their own old clothing.
Even compliments can be misleading. If someone says, "Nice jacket," how should you take it? Most compliments are just conversation starters. In New York, as in Japan, "I like your coat" often means little more than "Hi, how are you?"
If it’s a genuine compliment, it will meet three criteria:
1. You hear it repeatedly from different people.
2. The praise is specific.
3. It includes both the clothing and you as the wearer.
Only when all three align can you consider it a true positive signal.
Dressing Is Editorial Work
In Japan, April marks the start of a new professional year — a chance to reflect on your role and presence. Updating your appearance is a way to clarify your intentions and values. How will you present yourself in this era? What will you communicate without words?
What’s expected today is not luxury for its own sake, but the ability to visually articulate your values. It’s about how you choose, combine, and embody what matters most to you.
Vintage, in that sense, is deeply personal. It tells your story. If worn with discernment, it can be a powerful extension of your presence in professional contexts.
Balance your individuality with professionalism, your responsibilities with context, and your message with clarity. Then, vintage becomes not a risk, but a strategic choice.
Ask yourself: What is this outfit saying about me? Because in the end, what you wear is your posture, your will, and your commitment — made visible.
Dressing is how you edit your values for the world to see.